We realize quickly that we are in a pretty glitzy place, the only car dealerships we see are Rolls-Royce, Lotus and Lamborghini. The ocean is great around here, sure, but the mansions with an ocean view are even more stunning. Post-modern architecture at its best. It fits my idea of aesthetics just fine: no Colonial!
Driving down along the coast we hit Mission Beach and Ocean Beach, which are connected by means of a boardwalk for the non-motorized vehicles. More low-key than La Jolla, at this early hour they are already active with surfers of all group ages crossing the street barefoot with just their surfboard under their arms. We are heading to the Cabrillo National Monument, a small peninsula with great views of the entire SD bay. This is Loma Point. San Diego looks wrapped in a cloud of smog, instead it's a combination of morning fog from the ocean and dry air from the desert coming together and creating this effect. Back in San Diego, our first stop is Little Italy. I just wanted to compare it with Little Italy in Boston. It's a mere 2 block packed with small restaurants and cafes, surrounded by spanking new and modernist condo complexes. I check price ranges in a real estate window: 1000 sqf for $700.000. it's lunchtime but we are not up for pizza so we proceed to the next stop in the Gaslamp Quarter hoping to find some place to eat. This quarter has undergone some incredible refacing lately (in some parts still going on) and has been restored to its heyday. It's the heart of San Diego, both by day and night. As we walk past a posh Indian restaurant (Monsoon), we cannot resists the smells coming from the kitchen and we end up having a very delicious buffet-style lunch. Now we need to walk off the calories, but it won't be easy. Just across the street there's an entrance to Horton Plaza the new maze-like shopping area on 4 floors. From the top floor, the view of the city is not bad at all. Back on the Vespa we cross the Coronado bridge to visit the renowned Hotel del Coronado. It sits in an elegant and quiet neighborhood with a retro taste. Many street signs have a typical fifties look. The hotel itself is partly scaffolded for restoration and does not look photogenic.
The next stop is Old San Diego, where some of the oldest buildings are protected in a state park. There's a Mexican hacienda, a mission church, the first school, shops, an open market, a hotel and other buildings now converted in touristic restaurants. I could just as well be across the border in Tijuana...
On our way back to camp we cross the Mission quarter and Hillcrest, which in some parts reminds me of Broadway Street in NYC. The fifties relive in some buildings side by side with others typically Art Déco.
We are skipping dinner tonight. In bed early, we watch Keeping Up Appearances and Monty Python on KPBS.
The sun in the fog at La Jolla.
The coast at La Jolla Cove, in the fog.
The coast right before Pacific Beach, the sun's out.
Surfers riding the waves.
The smartest of them all caught this wave all the way back to shore.
Cabrillo National Monument.
The coast from Loma Point.
San Diego fro Loma Point.
Little Italy.
La Pensione hotel with Vincenzo restaurant.
Monsoon Indian restaurant, our lunch stop.
Horton Plaza.
A view inside.
Another detail from a connecting bridge.
San Diego from the fourth floor of the mall.
The Coronado bridge.
SD from the park under the bridge.
The old Santa Fe train depot (the two golden domes).
Adobe construction in Old San Diego.
Church in Old San Diego.
A pan flute player.
The first hotel of San Diego.